Urbanspoon Review
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Markus’ in Sooke.

Humble, understated elegance and oh soooo fresh!

Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant.
1831 Maple Avenue, Sooke, BC V0S 1N0, (250) 642-3596

Sooke is a quick 20-25 minute roadtrip just outside of Victoria. Often on my way to Sooke, I am tempted by the B&B signage for Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse. I own a copy of the book “Flavour’s of Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse” and let me tell you, the photographs in this recipe book will inspire and tempt even the most jaded of foodies. Myself included. As my wife was looking up information on Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse via the internet, she happened upon a different website for a restaurant in Sooke. Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant.

Ask me why I have never stopped at Markus’ until now and I wouldn’t even have a respectable answer. For myself, and others I presume, Sooke has always meant Whiffen Spit, Pot Holes and the Harbour House. So when my better half pointed out the interesting merits of this local establishment, I was instantly interested.

They call themselves “Vancouver Island’s Best Kept Secret”, but judging by how quickly this little gem filled with friendly locals, I think the secret is out.
As Markus’ is conveniently located just a stone’s throw from the ocean amidst a community known for their farm fresh meats, dairy and produce, it is small wonder that their menu focuses on the riches within their community.

Smartly offering a fish or seafood, beef, lamb, chicken and a rotating special as their main plate is a smart way to offer a tempting option for everyone. Their starters are unique in a way that a patron could easily order two or three plates and enjoy a very fulfilling meal. Their wine list is heavily influenced with British Columbia wines so if you are seeking a place with a vast range of wines from around the world, you may be a bit disappointed. However, as their primary focus with their menu is to support the local economy, it is not necessarily a surprise to see this. If you dine in California you will be exposed to a primarily California wines list so you should expect the same from other restaurants as you travel from region to region.

And now finally, our meal…
As I peruse the wine menu, my wife sometimes starts with a cocktail. If she does, it is usually a Caesar. I have a feeling that she is seeking the world’s greatest Caesar cocktail. This Caesar was good. Not “This will revolutionize the world of Caesars” type of good, but good. I found a Pinot Blanc from Sandhill. I am a loyal fan of Sandhill, particularly their small lots, so I thought it to be a safe bet and a nice wine that would compliment my meal choices.

Our starters were the Fried Semmelknoedel with Oyster Mushrooms and Greens for the wife and Risotto with Clams and Grilled Prawns for moi. The semmelknoedel salad was a delicately seasoned salad accompanied by tender oyster mushrooms, surrounding a large towering German-style dumpling. A surprisingly nice balance of heavy and light that left her satisfied and smiling. The risotto starter that I had was one of the better flavoured risotto dishes that I have ever had. Served piping hot, the creamy dish of rice and clams topped with two large perfectly grilled prawns was a much welcomed change. If not for the risotto being just slightly too soft for me (I’m fussy and I perfer it a bit more al dente) this may have been the best risotto I have ever eaten.

For our main plates my wife ordered the Flat Iron Steak with Gnocchi and I elected for the Oven Roasted Free Range Chicken Breast. Both excellent choices. The flat iron steak, though suggested to be served medium by our server, arrived medium rare just as we had asked. Accompanied by what may just be some of the softest gnocchi outside of Italy and seemingly floating atop an amazing peppered demi glace, the steak was juicy and full of flavour. This is a cut of steak that simply does not get enough recognition. It retains it’s juices very well and often has a distintly flavourful punch.

My oven roasted chicken was so juicy and flavourful throughout, it almost didn’t need the delicious demi glace and pan drippings that I sopped up with the accompanying potatoes. Each entree was delivered perfectly seasoned with simple seasonings which included salt, pepper and fresh herbs and fresh vegetables.
A very nice touch was when Markus emerged from the kitchen to do a little quality control, meet the guests (table by table) and make sure that everything was firing on all cylinders. Uncommon these days, particularly right in the middle of a service. For me, this showed his confidence in the way his restaurant was operating.

Desert! Oh yes, desert was yet to come. My wife ordered an Americano Coffee and as she couldn’t decide which desert tempted her the most, she opted for the Trio of Deserts which included a small panna cotta, tiramisu and a chocolate mousse. By this time we had met the couple at the table adjacent to us and they seemed so sure that the Panna Cotta was something that would change the way I saw the sunrise, I had to order it.

My panna cotta was in fact the best I have ever had. It was so creamy and melt-in-your-mouth delightful that I had all but forgotten about what I previously thought was the greatest panna cotta I would ever know which was enjoyed at Sinatra restaurant at the Encore in Las Vegas. My wife’s trio was indeed something to behold. A smaller portion of the worlds greatest panna cotta topped with caramel and raspberry, a mild, light, chocolate mousse and her all time favorite choice of desert – the tiramisu. The tiramisu and the americano coffee went so well together, she almost left there with an Italian accent.

A complete three course dinner for 2 including wine, cocktail and coffee only ran us $200.00 including tip. Given the lovely service, clean comfortable environment and the hearty, delicious meal they provided this night out is well worth the 25 minute drive from Victoria.

Over all this was one of the greatest meals I have ever had here on the west coast. Top 10 for sure. And full points for creativity, originality and keeping it local.
Great job Markus. Thank you for being there and we look forward to seeing you again real soon.