The EdGe Restaurant
Chef Edward Tuson’s extraordinary local, organic fare
by Alexandra Gill
Published in the Globe and Mail national newspaper, on Wednesday, Apr. 21, 2010 10:28AM EDT
“You only turn 40 once.” Thus said the fiancé before whisking me off to one of the world’s best foodie destinations for my birthday. So how did we end up in a small fishing village at a mini-strip-mall diner, seated at a back-corner table beside the ice machine?
That’s my sweetie – the last of the big spenders.
Just joking. The journey’s end will eventually bring us to Sooke Harbour House, a culinary outpost of international renown, where owners Frédérique and Sinclair Philip were advocating local, organic, slow-food cooking long before it became trendy.
It was actually my idea to make a pit spot in town at the year-old EdGe Restaurant, where the retro wood panelling is adorned with what looks like a paint-by-number, alpine-scene mural and the home-style fare is absolutely terrific.
Since 1979, Sooke Harbour House has nurtured an inordinate number of extraordinarily talented chefs: Michael Stadtlander (Ontario’s Haisai and Eigensinn Farm), David McMillan (Montreal’s Joe Beef), James Walt (Whistler’s Araxi), Melissa Craig (Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro) and Andrea Carlson (Vancouver’s Bishop’s), to name but a few.
Edward Tuson is the latest executive chef to depart the inn’s lauded restaurant. And when you consider that during his tenure (1998 to 2009), his kitchen helped the Philips earn some of their highest accolades – No. 1 Country Inn in the World (enRoute magazine), One of the Top 15 Hotels in the World (Travel & Leisure magazine) and Best Restaurant in the World for Authentic, Local Cuisine (Gourmet magazine) – he could have written his own ticket almost anywhere.
Instead, he and his spouse, Gemma Claridge, decided to stay right here in Sooke, 30 kilometres southwest of Victoria, population 12,000 (if you count visitors and seasonal workers in the entire Capital Regional District).
From a lifestyle point of view, it’s easy to understand why they jumped at the opportunity to take over the lease on this ramshackle building and open their own humble, 28-seat restaurant. By remaining in Sooke, they were able to keep living on their nearby farm, where they have a 250-tree orchard, butcher shop and barnyard of heritage-breed pigs.
You can taste the fruits of their passion in freshly cased, spicy lamb sausage that pops with fennel, coriander seed and bits of cilantro ($9.95 when tucked into a panini with a side salad, or $3.50 on its own). Intensely sweet cubes of house-made apple jelly melt like caramel into a bed of whipped cream cheese that sprouts tart apple spring rolls ($6.95), tightly wrapped in piping hot, shatteringly crisp phyllo pastry.
But from a business perspective, the impromptu gamble (they stumbled upon the property last March and opened two months later) has also paid off in spades.
The EdGe doesn’t take reservations and has limited hours (noon to 2:30 p.m. for lunch; 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. for dinner). Yet when we arrive on Saturday afternoon, the place is hopping. We take the last table and watch the rest of the room empty and fill once again while we eat. Keep in mind that the tourist season hasn’t even begun. These customers are all locals.
“You’re in for a treat,” says the woman seated beside us, as if letting us in on a big secret. “The chef worked at Sooke Harbour House for 12 years. You’re getting real quality here.” Leaning in to whisper, she adds: “But it’s not nearly as expensive.”
The prices on the daily chalkboard menu certainly are reasonable. Lunch entrées average $10; dinner rarely tops $20. But you can’t really compare the two restaurants. They’re in entirely different leagues.
The Sooke Harbour House restaurant is an upscale, white-clothed, fine-dining affair that boasts impeccable service and a wine cellar of such astonishing breadth and depth, it has held a Wine Spectator Grand Award since 2000 (last year, there were only 72 given out).
Sam Benedetto, the new executive chef (Mr. Tuson’s former sous chef, who returned after opening Victoria’s acclaimed Temple Restaurant) creates exquisite, multicourse tasting menus with exotic local ingredients grown in the restaurant’s own certified organic garden and harvested from the waters right outside the charming, white-clapboard inn. Think creamy wild stinging nettle and roast onion soup, tender butternut squash agnolotti puffed up Mabel Grey scented geranium and studded with chewy little gooseneck barnacles, or swimmingly fresh pan-fried silver grey rockfish bathed in a gingered-carrot sauce laced with calendula petal oil and sea lettuce froth.
The EdGe, by contrast, is far more casual. “I was tired of cooking food that I don’t necessarily eat,” Mr. Tuson later said about his reasons for leaving.
On any given day, his scrumptiously homey menu may include a satisfying Caesar salad ($6.95) lightly tossed with Parmesan dressing and a generous handful of densely, smoky house-cured bacon. If you’re in luck, the soup of the day ($4.95) will be the amazing green Thai curry broth blended with fish and lamb stock, which gives a curiously deep yet fresh chicken flavour.
We can’t resist the fish and chips ($11.95), which everyone seems to be eating. Mr. Tuson uses the same flaky silver grey rockfish that we later taste at Sooke Harbour House. But instead of fussing it up, he simply batters it in a crispy panko-and-egg white crust. (Jalepeno mayo served on the side is the only misstep of the meal. Someone in the kitchen must have added the oil too fast, or perhaps didn’t use enough, because the texture is frothy).
The Kitchen Sink Bowl ($8.95) is a wonderfully eccentric jumble of chicken, squid, mussels, clams, halibut and noodles in a mellow sweet and sour broth that finds us fighting over a few pork meatballs scented with nutmeg, clove and cinnamon.
The pork is so succulent I imagine it must be made with Mr. Tuson’s Ossabaw Island pigs, a famously buttery and extremely rare direct descendent of the feral Spanish black hog. Nope, this piggy is from Alberta’s Sunhaven Farm. The chef’s Ossabaw pigs – he has two new litters – are still piglets. But let me tell you, when those little hogs grow up and hit the menu, the EdGe could very well become a foodie destination all its own.
In the meantime, it makes a splendidly delicious stop if you happen to be passing through or are lucky enough to live here.
Sooke Harbour House
Address: 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd, Sooke
Frommer’s Review
The dining room of this celebrated restaurant/hotel offers spectacular views of Sooke Harbour, a relaxed atmosphere, and some of Canada’s best and most inventive food.
Dishes on the daily changing, seasonally adjusted menu are prepared with care, imagination, and flair. Ingredients are resolutely local: Many come from the inn’s own organic garden or from the ocean at the Harbour House’s doorstep. Depending on the season, dishes might include seared local ling cod with nasturtium and pickled garlic emulsion or grilled pork tenderloin with a red-wine meat stock reduction and dried cherry and thyme compote.
The wine cellar is one of the best in Canada. A four-course set menu or a seven-course Gastronomical Menu is offered nightly.
Urbanspoon Review
Sooke Harbour House
(250) 642-3421
1528 Whiffen Spit Road
Sooke, BC V9Z0T4
www.sookeharbourhouse.com
Amazing birthday dinner!
by Marc Larrous
August 05, 2010 – Really likes it
To splurge for my birthday, my wife took me to dinner at the famed Sooke Harbour House last week. I had heard lots, and was eager to see (=taste!) for myself what all the “fuss” was about. Usually, such rave reviews make for a disappointing experience, or reality-check, but in the case of Sooke Harbour House, this was certainly not the case. All of my high expectations were met, and far beyond that. Either my wife had arranged for very special treatment (not really her style though), or the service at this place is just always very charmingly hospitable, able and attentive. Rarely have we had such personalized and down-to-earth yet amazingly knowledgeable and alert service in a fine dining restaurant. Wait staff tends to be a bit snotty at such places, but not in Sooke!
Our table had a wonderful view over the ocean (Strait of Juan de Fuca), with the Olympic Mountains in the background when it was light still enough to see. The dining room is practically perched on the water, and surrounded by the gorgeous edible delights of the organic gardens that surround the hotel restaurant.
Though it was a warm night, a crackling fire was ablaze in the grand fireplace at the heart of the dining room, making the atmosphere all the more charming and cozy.
Our dinner was superb; we had a 7-course gastronomic adventure menu, with perfect wine pairing arranged by the knowledgeable yet highly approachable sommelier (have you ever seen such an impressive wine list? WineSpectator wasn’t kidding when they awarded this a Grand Award in the past years – this is one of a kind!).
Each course was amazing, both in presentation, flavours, smells, textures, combinations, and unique ingredients – too much to mention! Every night is a new, unique menu though – so I couldn’t recommend specific dishes.
You can read some of the past (intricate!) menus on their website if you want to get a feel for what you can expect. Expect lots, and get even more!
We had a truly wonderful experience – by far my best birthday dinner ever (and I’ve had a few good ones!). I would recommend this place to anyone. Don’t be scared off by rumours about overpriced or overrated meals. It’s simply not true. Sure, if you’re into fast food – don’t go. But then again, you wouldn’t really be reading reviews on UrbanSpoon if you weren’t into good, honest and inventive food, now would you?!
Next time we go (which will be soon), I’m planning to surprise my wife by booking a room for the night as well. We were offered a tour of two rooms by the helpful front desk staff, and it definitely caught our attention – amazing rooms with amazing views and full amenities, at very fair prices indeed. Plus they have some excellent deals and specials a lot of the time. Can’t wait to go back!
Stone Pipe Grill
Casual dining in a rustic, family-friendly setting
By Pam Grant, Times Colonist July 21, 2010
Every now and then, I get an urge to head out to French Beach to clamber around the driftwood and rocks for a couple of hours. My friend Vicki thought it sounded like a good idea and joined me on my most recent visit.
Part of the tradition means grabbing a bite to eat in Sooke on the way back to Victoria. This used to mean a stop at Mom’s Café, but on my last couple of visits, I have found that the food isn’t as good as it used to be, not to mention the hit-and-miss quality of the service. Fortunately, there is a great alternative nearby.
The Stone Pipe Grill was located in nearby Cooper’s Cove and was once named the Stone Pipe Landing. Today, it occupies a corner in an unassuming strip mall in “downtown” Sooke. Inside, it is rustic, family-friendly and a good spot for casual dining.
If you visited the original incarnation, you will be pleased to know that the new menu offers plenty of choice and that some old favourites such as Pad Thai remain and are still worth ordering. But things have changed under the ownership of Patrick Irwin, whose own paintings act as a pleasant consolation prize for the mesmerizing water views of the former location and illustrate his respect for the local community. The current menu is smaller but appealing, making use of fresh, local ingredients wherever possible.
A bowl of chowder seemed like a good idea, especially as theirs is packed with shrimp, halibut, haddock, clams and scallops, and served with garlic bread that you actually want to eat. The problem with soup as an appetizer for me, though, is that it fills me up and my job requires me to write about at least a couple of courses.
The Painted Dessert Salad, composed of chopped romaine, avocado, pine nuts, grilled red pepper and Parmesan cheese tossed with chipotle dressing sweetened with a touch of maple syrup, was intriguing just because of the mental picture it created, as were mussels bathed in tomato sauce with wine and basil. In the end, we each selected prawn dishes — mine simmered with cream, garlic and a good dose of chipotle peppers, and Vicki’s lightly breaded with coconut and paired with a creamy dipping sauce spiked with fresh lime and fresh herbs.
They were good value at just under $10 and I would order both again.
Hand-crafted burgers have a good reputation here, as do steaks, but we weren’t in the mood for either. Vicki was drawn to ginger fried beef, but agreed that a stir fry outside of an Asian restaurant can be disastrous, though when this dish arrived at the next table, we had to admit it looked pretty good.
She chose chicken Marsala, which came with a mound of mashed potatoes and various vegetables which weren’t terribly hot. There was a decent amount of tender chicken and though the sauce wasn’t the rich colour I would expect for this dish, it tasted better than it looked. My choice of grilled filet of halibut was nicely handled, finished with a blend of sesame oil, green onions and cilantro, and served on a bed of rice noodles with slivers of vegetables and wasabi-spiked mayonnaise.
Portions and prices will make most people happy, but there were a couple of gripes. Our main courses took far too long and while I don’t mind waiting when things are busy, I do mind when it has been 45 minutes and no one has bothered to say anything and I have to ask what is going on. Outside of this and a ridiculous push to get us to try dessert (why is it that when you are clearly stuffed, someone always suggests you try the cheesecake?) service was good if a little too perky, though this is preferable to the automaton alternative.
© Copyright (c) The Victoria Times Colonist
Urbanspoon Review
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Markus’ in Sooke.
Humble, understated elegance and oh soooo fresh!
Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant.
1831 Maple Avenue, Sooke, BC V0S 1N0, (250) 642-3596
Sooke is a quick 20-25 minute roadtrip just outside of Victoria. Often on my way to Sooke, I am tempted by the B&B signage for Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse. I own a copy of the book “Flavour’s of Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse” and let me tell you, the photographs in this recipe book will inspire and tempt even the most jaded of foodies. Myself included. As my wife was looking up information on Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse via the internet, she happened upon a different website for a restaurant in Sooke. Markus’ Wharfside Restaurant.
Ask me why I have never stopped at Markus’ until now and I wouldn’t even have a respectable answer. For myself, and others I presume, Sooke has always meant Whiffen Spit, Pot Holes and the Harbour House. So when my better half pointed out the interesting merits of this local establishment, I was instantly interested.
They call themselves “Vancouver Island’s Best Kept Secret”, but judging by how quickly this little gem filled with friendly locals, I think the secret is out.
As Markus’ is conveniently located just a stone’s throw from the ocean amidst a community known for their farm fresh meats, dairy and produce, it is small wonder that their menu focuses on the riches within their community.
Smartly offering a fish or seafood, beef, lamb, chicken and a rotating special as their main plate is a smart way to offer a tempting option for everyone. Their starters are unique in a way that a patron could easily order two or three plates and enjoy a very fulfilling meal. Their wine list is heavily influenced with British Columbia wines so if you are seeking a place with a vast range of wines from around the world, you may be a bit disappointed. However, as their primary focus with their menu is to support the local economy, it is not necessarily a surprise to see this. If you dine in California you will be exposed to a primarily California wines list so you should expect the same from other restaurants as you travel from region to region.
And now finally, our meal…
As I peruse the wine menu, my wife sometimes starts with a cocktail. If she does, it is usually a Caesar. I have a feeling that she is seeking the world’s greatest Caesar cocktail. This Caesar was good. Not “This will revolutionize the world of Caesars” type of good, but good. I found a Pinot Blanc from Sandhill. I am a loyal fan of Sandhill, particularly their small lots, so I thought it to be a safe bet and a nice wine that would compliment my meal choices.
Our starters were the Fried Semmelknoedel with Oyster Mushrooms and Greens for the wife and Risotto with Clams and Grilled Prawns for moi. The semmelknoedel salad was a delicately seasoned salad accompanied by tender oyster mushrooms, surrounding a large towering German-style dumpling. A surprisingly nice balance of heavy and light that left her satisfied and smiling. The risotto starter that I had was one of the better flavoured risotto dishes that I have ever had. Served piping hot, the creamy dish of rice and clams topped with two large perfectly grilled prawns was a much welcomed change. If not for the risotto being just slightly too soft for me (I’m fussy and I perfer it a bit more al dente) this may have been the best risotto I have ever eaten.
For our main plates my wife ordered the Flat Iron Steak with Gnocchi and I elected for the Oven Roasted Free Range Chicken Breast. Both excellent choices. The flat iron steak, though suggested to be served medium by our server, arrived medium rare just as we had asked. Accompanied by what may just be some of the softest gnocchi outside of Italy and seemingly floating atop an amazing peppered demi glace, the steak was juicy and full of flavour. This is a cut of steak that simply does not get enough recognition. It retains it’s juices very well and often has a distintly flavourful punch.
My oven roasted chicken was so juicy and flavourful throughout, it almost didn’t need the delicious demi glace and pan drippings that I sopped up with the accompanying potatoes. Each entree was delivered perfectly seasoned with simple seasonings which included salt, pepper and fresh herbs and fresh vegetables.
A very nice touch was when Markus emerged from the kitchen to do a little quality control, meet the guests (table by table) and make sure that everything was firing on all cylinders. Uncommon these days, particularly right in the middle of a service. For me, this showed his confidence in the way his restaurant was operating.
Desert! Oh yes, desert was yet to come. My wife ordered an Americano Coffee and as she couldn’t decide which desert tempted her the most, she opted for the Trio of Deserts which included a small panna cotta, tiramisu and a chocolate mousse. By this time we had met the couple at the table adjacent to us and they seemed so sure that the Panna Cotta was something that would change the way I saw the sunrise, I had to order it.
My panna cotta was in fact the best I have ever had. It was so creamy and melt-in-your-mouth delightful that I had all but forgotten about what I previously thought was the greatest panna cotta I would ever know which was enjoyed at Sinatra restaurant at the Encore in Las Vegas. My wife’s trio was indeed something to behold. A smaller portion of the worlds greatest panna cotta topped with caramel and raspberry, a mild, light, chocolate mousse and her all time favorite choice of desert – the tiramisu. The tiramisu and the americano coffee went so well together, she almost left there with an Italian accent.
A complete three course dinner for 2 including wine, cocktail and coffee only ran us $200.00 including tip. Given the lovely service, clean comfortable environment and the hearty, delicious meal they provided this night out is well worth the 25 minute drive from Victoria.
Over all this was one of the greatest meals I have ever had here on the west coast. Top 10 for sure. And full points for creativity, originality and keeping it local.
Great job Markus. Thank you for being there and we look forward to seeing you again real soon.
Happy 2011,
The next few days is calling for sun and low winds. Excellent time to
get out on the Juan de Fuca Strait. Also Transient Orcas were off of
Sooke a few days ago, still a chance to see these awesome animals!
Cheers
Russ & Megan
Sooke Coastal Explorations
Whale Watching/ Marine Adventures
Sooke Harbour Water Taxi
250-642-2343
250-883-3256 Russ Cell
What a GREAT DAY! 5 Orcas off of Beechy Head. We arrived to find
5 Transient Orcas off of Secretary Island slowly moving West. At one point we
did see the remnants of a Porpoise that they were feeding on.
At the end of our tour I decided to head West to Sheringham Point when I
found our Southern Resident Killer Whales 2 miles off shore and
heading East. Wow, we had K&L Pods, over 40+ Orcas. All were playing
and feeding at the same time.
Sooke Coastal Explorations
Whale Watching/ Marine Adventures
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